The Allure of Africa

Hi All,

I wrote this about 2 weeks into the trip (3 weeks ago), when I was staying in Sanyang.  I sat down one night and was inspired to write.  This is what came out in about 1 hour.  Since then I have only edited minor grammar.  Other than that, it's exactly as it was written at the time I sat down.  It's a bit long, but I hope you enjoy.

Love and miss you all,
Justin

The allure of Africa

Ok, despite stereotyping all of Africa in the title, I thought I'd reflect a bit today on what calls development workers, individuals and explorers to this place, and try to capture even a fleeting glimpse of what it's like to be here....

Before departing, or shortly after arriving, you will realize that the vast majority of what you do will be utterly insignificant in the day to day lives of most of the people you encounter.

You have no idea what to expect, of the sights, sounds, tastes or smells that await you, and least of all, what your experience will do to change you inwardly and outwardly.

I have already been through a deep longing for home, and come full circle, in only 15 hours, to a strong love for this place. Part of what both drives us to love this place, and repels us in fear is the rawness of this place.... every emotion, every sensation, every interaction and every experience you have will happen without the filters we are so used to at home. In North America we are encouraged to suppress our emotions, to live in a permanent state of ok'ness; where nothing is fantastic or great, and nothing also is ever dismal or terrible. Everyone walks around stating they are "Not bad" rather than good, and any inquisition between anything but the best of friends often only scratch the surface of the human condition to understand the most superficial details about a person. In this place all sensations are raw…. The market in Banjul, where most food is purchased, emanates an odour strong enough to make your stomach turn as raw fresh fish bake in the sun, the kindness of strangers, all of whom will stop you on the street to find out your name, where you came from, and to ask if you are ok. If you happen to have the same namesake, you will be forever bound as brothers despite the obvious outward differences. The joy of people to lend you a helping hand; a culture where willingness to give is inversely proportional to material wealth, and the kindness of someone who has far less wealth than you to insist on feeding you a meal to welcome you to their home, village or country. This is a place where people every day will go out of their way to help a neighbor. After a dangerous fall, resulting in an injury that required medical attention, a flock of pedestrians and several motorists stopped what they were doing to insist on helping in anyway they could, including providing a free drive to the nearest tourist hospital. These same people, everyday we see them continue to ask how the recovery is coming, and remind us that there is far more that binds us to each other when you scratch beyond skin deep, than you will believe if you only accept outward appearances.

Africa is an assault on all of your senses and aspects of your being. It will drive you to curse aloud the lack of modern luxuries you have taken for granted your entire life, like running water or access to reliable communication, but upon searching deeper, you will soon find you are as happy, if not more happy than you were before to have to work to get an e-mail, or jump for joy when you figure out how to have a bucket shower, and manage to use only a few litres of water in the process. The moment you see in the eyes of a complete stranger an understanding that transcends language, that through non-verbal communication has bound you to be forever brethren.

I have found many of the Gambian's I have met do lack a technical knowledge due strictly to insufficient schooling and in no part a reflection of their ability to comprehend, but simply on a tragic lack of opportunity, who, though often seen by Westerners as little more than uneducated heathens, grasp not one or two languages, but 6 independent languages, and communicate fluently in each, in the duration of one evening. I have been amazed again and again that as soon as you underestimate an ability of theirs, they will prove your assumptions to be completely incorrect, and often fed by ignorance.

The indifference and ignorance to the plight here is appalling when seen firsthand. To see children with eyes yellowed by exposure to the Malaria virus, to know a significant portion of the population will be directly affected by the HIV/AIDS virus, and to look into the eyes of children longing for even 1/10 of the opportunities we have taken completely for granted. It sickens me now to think back to my grade school days and recall how indifferent I and many of my classmates were to our own education. Taking the opportunity entirely for granted without realizing that worldwide 1/3 of children will not receive secondary education. At the same time it empowers and re-invigorates each of us who have seen firsthand the tragedy to spread the message, and seek in all we do, small ways to reduce the tragedy.

The range of emotions experienced while here has already, in only two weeks spanned the full spectrum of the human condition. I have at a time grown to loathe that I cannot walk out of the house without being pointed at by a child shouting "Toubab", or walk down the road without someone walking up and talking to me… it took me a few days to comprehend and accept that each of these people are genuinely interested in learning about who I am, where I am from, and individually welcoming me to this beautiful country, on behalf of all of their fellow citizens. Each person feels this to be their own personal duty, and will not allow the opportunity to pass for fear that I should feel uncomfortable or unwelcome here.

I think back to the last time I heard someone exclaim to a recent immigrant or tourist "Learn the language or get out"… and I truly shudder, for today I am the stranger, I have still not mastered any of the 10 different local languages, and though I have given a valiant attempt to learn Mandinka, I am still embarrassingly inadequate in my ability to converse with the local citizens beyond basic greetings and pleasantries. Despite this, I have still found myself welcomed each and every day into this country.

I recall thinking after returning from Tanzania, and again find myself thinking that we in North America are a backwards and thoroughly messed up culture. That we no longer sell food; fruit, produce, bread, meat or cooked food on the street side, to our obsession with moderation, that we neither be too loud, nor too quiet for fear we offend anyone; my day today was punctuated by a singing, music playing and dancing crowd of 50 people who were dancing through the village to raise charity funds to celebrate a circumcision in the family (whether or not you personally agree with the practice, the excitement and passion shown by all these individuals makes you dance in your place.). They were neither quiet nor meek… I believe I heard them 4 compounds over, and they make no apology whatsoever for it. I was drawn out of the house when they arrived to see the spectacle and be part of the excitement and celebration. The fact we have individuals who believe that Canada should force all people to integrate to one of our two languages and abandon their cultural roots and traditions makes me afraid for the future. I have sat out on nights while here and partaken in conversation in 3 different languages (well ok, my English was good… my French … it was ok… my Mandinka, I probably shouldn't count as a language, but more akin to guttural moans only resembling language in the loosest sense of the word), and discuss with a people who have little or no formal education, and for whom opportunities for personal improvement of their social class are nearly non-existent, the problems facing the world, facing their country and facing their own people, to discuss critically what options exist for improving their own social or economic situation. Some of the ideas suggested have made me marvel at their ingenuity and, most importantly their simplicity.

This is a continent of absolute extremes that forces you to re-examine all you deem important and necessary in your life. A people living in abject poverty, who if asked, would give you the shirt off their back to ensure you feel welcome and warm. People who may not have enough food to feed themselves a dinner meal that night, but who spend their last Dalasi, Shilling or dollar to buy food for you, so that you will not be hungry when you leave their home. Individuals who, when asked a direction, will not point out the location, but close up their shop to personally walk you to your destination, so they can be certain you arrived safely. If the trip requires a taxi to arrive at, they will haggle with the driver on your behalf for a fair local price, then exclaim and insist that you pay not a penny more than what they themselves would pay to make the trip.
I will continue to waver between deep love and resentment for this place…though every new time I feel resentment or frustration at this place, I find it is shorter-lived than the last time, and every time I feel love for this place, it is as true and deep as the first time I felt it. There is nothing I wouldn't give to be back safe at home, surrounded by family and friends, a culture I fully understand, and all the modern luxuries, but while I miss my loved ones incredibly, I am having a wonderful time here, and every day feel lucky to be able to experience it.

This, to me, is the essence of Africa.